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WINE
ON OUR MIND
There's nothing I like better than a Greek feast at
the home of my friend Stavros. His father brushing
lemon over the rotating lamb, octopus on the grill,
his mother's keftedes. And the wine? Well, I in no
way consider myself a wine snob, but, frankly, the
stuff is turpentine: Retsina, which is flavored with
pine resin, is for many the first and last taste of
Greek wine. Fortunately, John Pardalis, the resident
Greek wine expert at Manhattan's Molyvos restaurant,
introduced me to new. premium Greek wines. It was a
scorching day on Seventh Avenue-not Santorini-but these
wines still refreshed. And at prices will make you
shout, "Opa!" |
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Foloi
Mercouri,
($10) looks more French than Greek with its Art Nouveau
label but it's made entirely from indigenous Roditis
grapes. Refreshingly clean and simple, it has good acidity
and lemon flavor typical of the grape with a bone-dry
finish. A great cooler by the beach or aperitif.
For
a slightly bigger white, try Hatzi
Michalis Estate Laas ($18),
blended from three Greek grapes you'll never pronounce
yet nonetheless remember. Just relax and enjoy the aro'ma
of honey, citrus fruit, and flowers with a bit of paraffin
waxiness. A lush body makes it a great pick when grilling
fish or pork.
Finally,
Meliasto Spiropoulos
($8) is a robust rose made from the
Moschofilero grape. A big bouquet, packed with strawberry,
citrus
zest, roses, and almost candied fruit belies the light,
refreshing body and bone-dry finish of the wine. The
subdued flavor is more a relief than a letdown. - JEFFERY
LINDENMUTH.
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